Cuvée Blanc

The wine

The sweetness is there — you notice it — and the acid is what keeps the glass from going soft. Green apple and lime do the rest. That is the argument, and it holds.

Pale straw-yellow with a little gold, clear and bright. The nose is fruit-first: green apple, lemon, lime zest, then pineapple, gooseberry, and a light floral line. Clean, citrus-lifted, and not particularly complex. A little vinous character sits under the fruit.

The sip follows that orchard-and-citrus register. Light-to-medium, smooth and rounded, with a faint mineral line that gives the midpalate some edge. Bright, zesty acidity holds the residual sweetness so the wine stays refreshing instead of turning candy. The fruit is straightforward. The parts stay together.

The close is clean. The acid leaves the mouth watering. Fruit and sweetness recede. Moderate persistence, and not much more develops after the first flavors.

It drinks as a cool-climate still white — citrus, orchard fruit, lively acid, a little mineral — more than as a dry one. The rounded texture helps. The sweetness and the modest depth are what keep it from reading as a conventional dry white.

Pour it cold with lighter food or seafood. Eighty-four is for freshness and balance, not for complexity.