Sparkling Rosé

The wine

The nose is fruit-forward rather than yeasty. It smells like pink sparkling wine that wants to be pretty, not like dough or toast.

The palate has a delicate mousse and salmon-pink fruit. The bubble is finer than most alcohol-free fizz, and that is the best structural thing about the glass. The sweetness is not. It sits in front of the berry once the sip settles, and the acid does not fully pull it back. Mouthfeel is light. The wine is not thin, because the sugar gives it a middle, and that middle is the problem as much as the solution.

Candied strawberry, short and clean, is the last thing in the glass. Serve it cold, in a flute. Colder is better. Warm, the sweetness moves forward and the musk turns soft.

It is a real sparkling rosé, floral and pink, and sweeter than a toast needs. The bead is convincing. The fruit is easy. Dryness and length are not what this glass gives you. Keep it cold, in a flute, if you want the musk and the berry ahead of the sugar. Let it warm and the sugar wins. The fine bead is what makes the sweetness tolerable. Pretty, pink, and better cold.