Perlant Jus de Pommes à Sydre

The cider

The bitterness is what makes Perlant. Bitter-sharp cider fruit gives the glass a spine that dessert apples never could, and it is the line between a serious orchard drink and a glass of juice.

The nose announces it. Tart, floral apple leads, faintly bitter and complex without a trace of sweetness, with apple skin already present as a clue to the palate. This is cider fruit, not the produce aisle.

The bead is perlant in the true sense: a fine, light prickle rather than a sparkling-wine mousse. Body is light and the palate dry-leaning, and the middle runs clean and mineral rather than juicy. There is no candied apple and no vanilla. Tart fruit, floral lift and apple-skin grip hold each other in balance, with nothing cloying left over.

The finish is the surprise. It runs long and clean, with apple-skin bitterness lingering well after the bubbles fade. Given time in the glass, the floral note opens while the bitter edge holds its line.

It is not a cider with the alcohol taken out, and it does not taste like one. Judge it as pressed heritage fruit, lightly sparkling, and it shows how much structure cider apples carry on their own. Serve it well chilled, in a wine glass.